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Glossary

Cooking terms, explained.

A

Achaar
South Asian pickle preserved with salt, oil, spices and often acid. Technique
Across the grain
Slicing meat perpendicular to its muscle fibres so pieces are more tender to eat. Technique
Agar
A seaweed-derived gelling agent that must be boiled to dissolve, sets firm at room temperature and stays set when warm. Technique
Air
A very light foam, usually made by blending a liquid with lecithin at the surface. Technique
Atta
Finely ground whole-wheat flour used for roti and paratha. Technique

B

Baker's percentage
Expressing each ingredient's weight as a percentage of the flour weight. Technique
Bark
The dark, flavourful crust that forms on smoked meat. Technique
Basting
Spooning fat or juices over food as it cooks to flavour it and help browning. Technique
Batch cooking
Cooking larger quantities ahead and storing portions safely for later use. Technique
Batonnet
Stick-shaped pieces about 6 mm square and 5–6 cm long. Technique
Béchamel
A white sauce of milk thickened with a white roux. Technique
Beurre manié
Equal amounts of soft butter and flour kneaded together and whisked into a sauce to thicken it at the end. Technique
Bhuna
A dish (or stage) where the masala and meat are fried down until little sauce remains, coating the meat. Technique
Bhunao
Frying a masala base slowly, stirring and scraping, until the moisture cooks off and the oil separates. Technique
Birista
Thinly sliced onions fried slowly until deep golden and crisp, used in biryani and gravies. Technique
Bloom (gelatine)
Soaking gelatine in cold water so it hydrates before dissolving. Technique
Bouquet garni
A bundle of herbs (often parsley stalks, thyme and bay) tied together to flavour a stock or stew and removed before serving. Technique
Braise
To brown food, then cook it slowly, covered, in a small amount of liquid. Technique
Breading
A coating of flour, beaten egg and crumbs applied in that order before frying. Technique
Brine
A solution of salt in water used to pickle, cure or season food. Technique
Broken sauce
An emulsion that has separated into fat and liquid. Technique
Brunoise
A very fine dice of about 3 mm, usually cut from julienne strips. Technique

C

Caramelisation
Browning of sugars when heated, producing sweet, nutty and bitter notes. Science
Carryover cooking
The rise in internal temperature after food leaves the heat, as heat moves from the hot outside to the centre. Science
Case hardening
A dry, hard outer layer that forms when food is dried too hot, trapping moisture inside. Technique
Chiffonade
Leafy herbs or greens rolled and cut into fine ribbons. Technique
Clarified butter
Butter with water and milk solids removed, leaving pure butterfat. Technique
Claw grip
Holding food with curled fingertips tucked under the knuckles to guide the knife safely. Technique
Collagen
Connective-tissue protein in meat that turns to gelatin with long, moist cooking. Science
Confit
Food cooked slowly while submerged in fat at a low temperature. Technique
Consommé
A stock clarified with a raft of egg white and minced meat until completely clear. Technique
Court-bouillon
A quick, flavoured poaching liquid of water, wine or vinegar, vegetables and herbs, mainly for fish. Technique
Curing salt
Salt mixed with a measured amount of sodium nitrite (and sometimes nitrate) for curing meat; toxic in excess. Technique

D

Danger zone
The 5–60 °C range in which bacteria multiply fastest; keep food out of it as much as possible. Science
Degchi
A heavy, straight-sided pot (deg for the large version) used for biryani and large batches. Technique
Deglaze
To add liquid to a hot pan and scrape up the browned residue into a sauce. Technique
Dhungar
Smoking a dish by setting a live coal in a small bowl on top of the food, pouring ghee over it and covering the pot. Technique
Double-frying
Frying food once at a lower temperature to cook it through, then again hotter to crisp it. Technique
Dredge
To coat food lightly in flour or another dry coating before frying. Technique
Dry brine
Salting meat and leaving it uncovered in the fridge, so the salt seasons it deeply and the surface dries. Technique
Dry-roasting
Heating whole spices in a dry pan until fragrant and a shade darker. Technique
Dum
Slow cooking in a sealed pot over very low heat so food cooks in its own steam. Technique
Dum pukht
The Awadhi style of slow, sealed-pot cooking, associated with Lucknow. Technique

E

Emulsion
A mixture of two liquids that do not normally mix, with one dispersed in the other as tiny droplets. Science
Espuma
A dense foam dispensed from a cream whipper charged with nitrous oxide. Technique

F

FIFO
First in, first out: using older stored food before newer stock. Technique
Flambé
To ignite warm alcohol in a pan; some, not all, of the alcohol burns off. Technique
Fluid gel
A set gel blended until smooth so it flows like a sauce but holds its shape on a plate. Technique
Fond
The browned residue left on the pan after searing or roasting. Technique

G

Gaddi
A padded cushion used to stretch naan and slap it onto the wall of a tandoor. Technique
Garam masala
A North Indian blend of warming whole spices, roasted and ground; usually added late in cooking. Technique
Gelatine
A gelling agent made from animal collagen that sets in the fridge and melts near body temperature. Technique
Ghee
Butter simmered until the water evaporates and the milk solids brown lightly, then strained. Technique
Glace
Stock reduced until thick, syrupy and highly concentrated. Technique
Gluten
The elastic protein network formed when wheat flour is mixed with water and worked. Science
Gratinate
To brown a topping of cheese, crumbs or sauce under strong top heat. Technique

H

Handi
A deep, round-bellied cooking pot with a narrow mouth, used for dum and slow-cooked curries. Technique
Hydrocolloid
A substance such as agar, gelatine, xanthan or alginate that thickens or gels water. Science

I

Immersion circulator
A device that heats and circulates water to hold a precise temperature for sous vide. Technique

J

Julienne
Thin matchstick strips, about 3 mm square and 5 cm long. Technique

K

Kacchi biryani
Biryani in which raw marinated meat is layered with par-cooked rice and both cook together on dum. Technique
Kadhai
A deep, round-bottomed Indian wok used for frying, bhunao and stir-frying. Technique
Kahm yeast
A harmless white film yeast that can form on brine ferments; it is skimmed off, unlike fuzzy mould. Technique
Kasuri methi
Dried fenugreek leaves, crushed and added near the end of cooking. Technique
Khameer
Leaven or fermentation, as in fermented batters and doughs. Technique

L

Lacto-fermentation
Fermentation by lactic acid bacteria, which sour food as they convert sugars to lactic acid. Science
Lecithin
An emulsifier found in egg yolk and soy, used to stabilise emulsions and light foams. Science

M

Maillard reaction
Browning reactions between amino acids and sugars that create savoury, roasted flavours above roughly 140 °C. Science
Marinade
A seasoned mixture, often with salt, acid and spices, that flavours food before cooking. Technique
Masala
A mixture of spices, either a dry ground blend or a wet cooked base of onion, tomato, ginger, garlic and spices. Technique
Mirepoix
Diced onion, carrot and celery used as an aromatic base for stocks and sauces. Technique
Mise en place
Having every ingredient prepared and measured, and every tool ready, before cooking starts. Technique
Mount (monter au beurre)
To finish a sauce by whisking in cold butter off the heat for gloss and body. Technique

N

Nappe
The consistency of a sauce that coats the back of a spoon and holds a line drawn through it. Technique
Natural release
Letting a pressure cooker lose pressure by itself before opening it. Technique

O

Oil separation
The point in bhunao when fat pools at the edges of the masala, showing that most of the water has cooked off. Technique
Osmosis
Movement of water across cell membranes toward a higher salt or sugar concentration. Science

P

Pakki biryani
Biryani in which the meat is cooked first, then layered with par-boiled rice and finished on dum. Technique
Par level
The quantity of a prepared item a kitchen aims to have ready for a service. Technique
Parboil
To boil food until partly cooked, to finish later by another method. Technique
Pasteurisation (cooking)
Holding food at a temperature long enough to reduce harmful bacteria to safe levels; lower temperatures need longer times. Science
Phoron
Bengali word for tempering; panch phoron is the five-seed blend (fenugreek, nigella, cumin, black mustard, fennel) used for it. Technique
Podi
A south Indian dry powder of roasted lentils, spices and chillies, eaten with rice or idli. Technique
Proof (prove)
To let a yeast dough rise before baking. Technique

Q

Quenelle
A smooth, three-sided oval shaped between two spoons or with one warm spoon. Technique

R

Raft
The layer of coagulated egg white, meat and vegetables that traps particles while clarifying consommé. Technique
Reduce
To simmer or boil a liquid uncovered so water evaporates and flavour concentrates. Technique
Resting
Leaving cooked meat to stand before slicing so the temperature evens out and juices are lost less when cut. Technique
Reverse spherification
Dropping a calcium-containing liquid into an alginate bath, giving spheres that stop gelling once rinsed. Technique
Ring mould
A bottomless metal ring used to shape food neatly on the plate. Technique
Rolling boil
A vigorous boil that does not stop when stirred. Technique
Roux
Equal weights of fat and flour cooked together, used to thicken sauces. Technique

S

Salamander
A professional overhead broiler used to brown and glaze food quickly. Technique
Sauté
To cook small pieces quickly in a little fat over fairly high heat. Technique
Sear
To brown the surface of food quickly over very high heat. Technique
Shock
To plunge just-cooked food into iced water to stop the cooking. Technique
Sigri
A small charcoal brazier used for grilling kebabs, corn and rotis. Technique
Sil-batta
A flat grinding stone and a stone roller, used to grind wet masala pastes and chutneys by hand. Technique
Simmer
Liquid held just below the boil, with small bubbles rising gently. Technique
Skim
To remove scum, foam or fat from the surface of a liquid. Technique
Slurry
Starch (cornflour, arrowroot) mixed with cold liquid and stirred into a hot sauce to thicken it. Science
Smoke point
The temperature at which a fat starts to smoke continuously and break down. Science
Sodium alginate
A seaweed-derived thickener that gels instantly in contact with calcium; used for spherification. Technique
Sous vide
Cooking sealed food in a water bath held at a precise temperature. Technique
Stall
A plateau in internal temperature during long smoking, caused by evaporative cooling. Technique
Starch gelatinisation
Starch granules absorbing water and swelling when heated, which thickens liquids. Science
Starter
A portion of an active ferment (yogurt, sourdough) used to begin a new batch. Technique
Sweat
To cook vegetables gently in a little fat, often covered, until soft without browning. Technique

T

Tadka
Whole spices and aromatics fried briefly in hot ghee or oil and added to a dish, at the start or as a finish. Also called tarka, chhaunk, baghaar, vaghar or thalimpu. Technique
Tandoor
A cylindrical clay oven fired from below with charcoal or wood, used for kebabs and breads. Technique
Tawa
A flat or slightly concave iron griddle used for rotis, parathas and dosas, and as a diffuser under a dum pot. Technique
The pass
The counter where finished plates are checked and handed to service. Technique
Two-zone fire
A grill set up with a hot side for searing and a cooler side for gentle cooking. Technique

V

Velveting
Coating sliced meat in a light mixture (often egg white and cornflour) and briefly pre-cooking it in oil or water to keep it tender in a stir-fry. Technique

W

Water activity
A measure of how much water in food is available to microbes; drying, salting and sugar lower it. Science
Wet grinder
An electric stone grinder used for idli and dosa batter and coconut pastes, grinding slowly with little heat. Technique
Whistle
The pressure-release signal of an Indian pressure cooker, often used to time cooking. Technique
Windowpane test
Stretching a small piece of bread dough until thin enough to see light through it, to check gluten development. Technique
Wok hei
The smoky, seared aroma of food stir-fried in a very hot wok. Technique

Y

Yakhni
A spiced meat stock used for pulao and as a gravy base. Technique